Paris is the number one destination for American travelers! 
If the City of Lights is so romantic, inviting and exciting, what about the rest of France?

Join me while I begin investigating some of its other great cities.  Let's start with Lyon.  It's the second largest city, and is known for its two rivers the Rhone and the . 

Lyon--beauty everywhere

It's a blend of magnificent art and thriving industry.  A short drive from the heart of town is the restaurant of top Micheline rated chef, Paul Bocuse, and 10 minutes away is the silk factory of Canova.  But wait, I'm getting ahead of my story... We boarded the TGV, France's high speed train system in Paris, at 10 a.m., and arrived in Lyon exactly four minutes after noon.  The trip was smooth, comfortable and fast, far from boring.

En route is an artist's paradise, there are fields of bright yellow rape (its oil is used for many things including salad dressings), then velvet green meadows where cattle peacefully graze, then off in the distance a forest of trees, and every once in a while a small village with its traditional town square and church.

The TGV Mediterranee Train

Traveling by train is very popular, and its rail network is expanding.  The conductor told me that the TGV Mediterranee (from Paris to the south) started operation in June, 2001.  Built at a cost of $3.5 billion dollars over the past decade, the TGV Med travels at 186 mph and cuts the Paris-Avignon journey to 2 hours 40 minutes, Paris-Marseille to just 3 hours.  Unlike flying, you leave from the center of the city and arrive in the hub of the city.

You can contact RailEurope 
on their web site at 

http://www.raileurope.com/

or by telephone number at

1- 800.4.EURAIL 

 Paris-Lyon Station

We stayed at the Hotel Sofitel, which is just a few feet from the lovely Rhone River. The day was warm and sunny, and we were instantly charmed by its General Manager Eric Obeuf.  He took time to explain some of the city's history. 

"Lyon remembers its roots," Obeuf began. "Two thousand years ago it was the capital of les Gaules.   Then it was the silk capital, and today it's becoming a major site of technological and biological research.  That is why so much is happening - an expanded airport, technological parks, green space, new apartments." 

Truly exciting for its citizens was when the  UNESCO World Heritage Committee inscribed the historic site of Lyon on the UNESCO Heritage List.  Lyon joined the ranks of Prague as the second urban center on the World Heritage List spanning more than 1,200 acres. While Obeuf was filling us in on both the past and present, he invited us to join him for dinner at Les Trois Domes, which is on the top floor of the Sofitel, and offers a panoramic view of the old and new parts of the city.  We had already  enjoyed the Rhone breezily flowing in front of the hotel, but from this height we could see the Soane River.

Lyon is on UNESCO Heritage List as an historic site

He began reminiscing about President Clinton's stay in '96 for the G7 Meeting.  "The U.S. contingent booked the whole hotel all 160 rooms and 29 suites," the general manager smiled. 
"We found President and Mrs. Clinton very friendly, and she, in particular, requested seeing some of the historic areas she had read about. 

Not only did they enjoy our famous Lyonnaise cuisine, but also the home-like Bouchon, where grandmothers do the cooking."
 

 The Sofitel Hotel at night, reflected 
in the waters of the Rhone River

Le Restaurant Les 3 Domes on the eighth floor, offered an exciting menu.  Chef Alain Desvides offers a creative gourmet cuisine filled with innovations still respecting the real Lyonnaise tradition. 

While enjoying a delicious meal, I made a note... This is definitely in the heart of everything. 

After a good night's rest, we were off to learn more about this city of 500,000.  We met our guide in the lobby of the Sofitel and headed for the Old City.  Geographically speaking, Lyon is situated between the Rhone and the Soane Rivers and two hills, Fourviere and Croix Rousse. The Vieux Lyon on the hill of Fourviere was once the home for traders and bankers and workman (weavers on the silk looms).

Lyon is identified by map makers  by its two rivers and two hills.

These silk workers traveled from their mountain dwellings through traboules long corridors, which allowed them acess from one street to another, through these arched corridors.

The taxi came to the entrance to the Old Town, and the driver stopped at an intercom.   Seems cars are not allowed  in this section of the ancient city, which is high on the hill, and filled with narrow winding streets.  The driver said we were going to Cour des Loges, so he was permitted to drive us there and leave. 
 

This building is really four adjoining protected monuments, just listed by UNESCO as world heritage.  They were once residences form the 14th, 16th, and 17th centuries.  They have retained their authentic look, plus their  original charm, by being grouped under a glass roof.   It is now a hotel, 62 "loges," from double rooms to suites to apartments.  There is also a heated indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, dry sauna, and a roof top garden.

Robert Remond, Sous  Directeur, greeted us.

It is the newest hotel bought by Compagnie des Hotels de Montagne. Little did I guess there was a big surprise awaiting me.  I met Robert Remond, sous-directeur, and he showed me some of the rooms.  They were amazing.  Original murals drawn on the walls, colors that were vivid yet subdued like only an artist could achieve.  There was a room designed for a photographer.  It's two floors were joined by a huge, old-fashioned camera mounted to a post.  It was too ingenious!

I went in to see a room still wet from paint, and here is where I had my surprise.  Herve Thibault, an artist I had met in Gorde, France, three years ago, had come to Lyon to meet me.

View down to reception

Thibault is a wonderful impressionist painter, a modern Monet. I had met he and his bride when I was in the South of France and visited his atelier.  I fell in love with his painting of bridges of Lyon in the mist, and bought it.  Then, I had to hand carry it for the rest of my trip through Europe!

 Artist and designer, Herve Thibault, designed rooms, 
including the art work throughout Cour des Loges.

With our joyous reunion, I had to thank him, for when I came home, and hung it in my living-room, I saw he had framed it for me in an 18th century hand-carved wooden frame.  Can you image how fabulous it looked?

He brought me up to date.  His bride and he had a son who is now two, he has had several important exhibitions of his work, and he's the one who designed the suites at the Cour des Loges.

He explained how they had united four of the most beautiful Renaissance houses in Old Lyon.  Kept the Italian spirit and wonderful hues, and let the light flow through the nine interior courtyards and domes. 

"It was a joy to work here," he confided. " Imagine a hotel, sculpted in stone, enhanced by spiral stairways, French beamed ceilings and intimate gallery passages.  That's Cour des Loges.  Every stone, each step echoes with ingrained history.  It's the blending of styles and criss-crossing centuries that provide its unique character, a subtle harmony between Renaissance spirit and contemporary creation.  " 

When I visited Cour des Loges every room was filled, visitors from around the world were seduced with its refined ambiance from its yellow ochre exterior to its deep Italian peach interior. 

I also met young, handsome, and talented Nicolas LeBec, a chef from Brittany who was in charge of the restaurant.  He organizes his menu around vegetables, and guests can select the wines from the cellar.  He delights in savours and flavors.  He combines tastes, blends perfumes, harmonizes flavors.  His creations are real discoveries.

Chef Nicolas LeBec

For example, for a starter would you choose Tender Vegetables simmered in foie gras, bone marrow and mushrooms.  Or would you prefer local artichokes, served in hot consommé with eucalyptus, roasted frog leg and sake?

For an entrée, there's pork chop from the farm with onions cooked with cedar.  Or a light poached cod fillet with fricassee of cod and fresh mushrooms with Brasilian walnuts.

Do save space for desert for there are wild strawberries served with hot red wine from the Beaujolais with spice and citrus. 

And just so you won't forget Nicolas Le Bec, there's a small souvenir as you leave.  His homemade chocolate truffles presented in his trademark black box tied in silver.

Other treats on LeBec's menu.

Andre Claude Canova has a worldwide reputation as an artist who enjoys a continuous love affair with fine silks.  Many of the famous scarves from Dunhill, Chanel, Cartier, Dior were made at his modern factory which is equipped to print a half a mile of fabric when given the green light. 

It was 25 years ago, that Canova began his romance with silk. Today, he designs his own collection, with one scarf often boasting 15 to 20  different colors.  His studio in Lyon is an old Carthusian residence, with silk walls, furbishings and pillows.  It's both historic and dramatic.  Even the exterior boasts a  horseshoe shaped Renaissance staircase.
 

But, don't let that Old World ambience fool you, inside are rooms filled with today's most beautiful and best-selling scarves, pillows, vests, jackets.  Yes, even scarf suspenders, which Jerry Hall (the former Mrs. Mick Jagger) bought 20 pairs!   Everyone from Princess Caroline of Monaco to Bill Clinton of the U.S. have Canova scarves and ties in their wardrobe. Often described as a poet of color, Canova may have inherited his artistry from his ancestor, Canova de Possagno, a noted bronze sculptor in the 18th century.

Andre Claude Canova

Canova creates all his  designs, from vest to  blouses, to ties, etc.

Andre Claude was a successful photographer, always with a trained eye for color and fabric.  Soon he decided to translate his vision to another field.   "My goals are quality and creativity," he told me when I visited him at his atelier in Lyon.  His talent was obvious, and many helped to make his dream of designing a reality.  An executive of Cartier was particularly helpful in introducing him to new clients and  helping him get a loan to open the House of Canova.

"I work because I am passionate about my designs," he confided.  "My factory is 35 miles from Lyon.  Come, I will take you there so you can see how these silk designs are made." 

 Bonnie and Mrs. Canova model scarf suspenders. 
One celebrity ordered 20 pairs!

We arrived 40 minutes later at one of the most modern factories I've been in.  I could understand how it could run 20 colors on one design. He explained it took 12 hours to run that much color.  Most factories might do six or seven, but 20 no way! 

 He took us though the factory, which was neat as a bridal dress, and went through the silk screening process.  His excitement and pride showed how much he loved what he was doing. 

Where does he get his ideas?  "Travel, history, nature inspire me," he smiled.  "The music of the 60's inspired me to design a rock n' roll theme on a scarf.  Once I get an idea it quickly flows and expands.  My latest was to do vests and braces (suspenders), then belts and blouses.  I get an idea every few minutes, and I quickly sketch it.  It can be a sunset in Tuscanny, the gold of Massa masks, the silky pearl shades of  a Maharajah's robe, or the rare jewels from the Taj Mahal."   All these and more,  Canova has captured on silk, and the world of fashion is showering him with compliments.

In the factory